Christmas is getting closer, so it’s time for another sewing-project! There’s already a pincushion and a zipper pouch. Now I’m adding a tote bag to the list. To make it more interesting, this bag has a pleated motif as a decoration. As usual, you can download the free pdf-pattern from the side panel. Here’s what the file looks like. You can see all the pieces. The pleated motif has 1 cm | 3/8 in. seam allowance. The rest is up to you, but I added suggested seam allowances to each piece. Choice of fabric and cutting the pieces You can make the whole tote bag in same color, or use a different color for the pleated motif like I did. Choose any fabric you like, but this being a bag, a bit heavier fabric is better. You also have to be able to press the pleats nicely. Cotton is probably…

Continuing with the sleeve-theme, this time I put together all kinds of pleated sleeves. They are beautiful, but unfortunately also high maintenance: every time you wash the garment,…

Read More

It’s almost Halloween and I decided to prepare a little costume-tutorial. I don’t know if you’ve seen the 1996 live-action movie version of the 101 Dalmatians, but you should definitely check out the costumes worn by Cruella de Vil! I think Glenn Close was an excellent choice for the role and the costumes look fabulous and very extravagant. The costume-designer Anthony Powell was even nominated for an Oscar for this job. So in case somebody would be interested in re-creating the Cruella de Vil -look, I chose this costume. It’s quite easy to make and it’s a recognizable costume if you’ve seen the film. It has the pointy shoulders, which might be useful knowledge for other costumes as well. Observing the costume Unfortunately I couldn’t find any video-material to study the costume better, so we’ll have to go by this picture and imagine the backside. The picture is from Vanity…

This time I wanted to write about garment ease. You know the situation: you are about the sew yourself a garment, using a commercial pattern. You carefully measure yourself and choose the right size from the size-chart. It’s a larger size than the ones you normally wear, but it has your measurements nonetheless. Then you happily cut all the pattern-pieces and (hopefully) sew a toile. However when you try it on, it looks like a tent! Why?? Well, it’s probably because of the ease that has been included in the pattern. What is garment ease? Ease is that extra room that has been added to the garment so that it feels comfortable to wear. You need it so that you can easily move in your clothes. This is especially important when working with woven fabrics. Even when you’re drafting fitted garments. The amount of wearing ease depends on the type…

I want to introduce to you some other people who have studied Shingo Sato ‘s TR cutting techniques. Here are the first two, Ade and Janneth. I’m sure you’ll find their social media pages inspiring. Adewumi Adegbola Adewumi Adegbola – or Ade –  is a Nigerian designer based in London, United Kingdom. She started sewing at a very young age because her mum owned a number of sewing machines as a result of her dad being a renowned Tailor back in her home town in Nigeria. So sewing and craft work runs in Ade’s family. However it was done in the old fashion way in Africa called the free hand cutting ( no pattern drafting). Abandoning her early educational route in business administration and international human resource management, Ade ventured into fashion industry for which she had a strong undying passion. She had always sewn lovely garments for herself and…