News and pleats
How is everybody doing?
I have been quite inspired to make myself some new summer clothes lately, starting from the pattern of course. In particular, I’m obsessed with maxi-skirts and white shirts at the moment.
If you’re following my Instagram, you’ll probably know that I’ve found some really cool books on geometry and modular origami. I’ve been studying them and I’ll try to incorporate this new information into some patterns later. There’s something so beautiful in the symmetrical and geometrical shapes, so I just couldn’t resist buying the books!
I also re-launched the call for designers on Instagram. I’ve done it couple of times before and the idea is that my followers get to send me design-sketches. I then make the pattern and post the toile. Now I have quite a few sketches waiting. So exciting! From next week on, I’ll be concentrating on them.
As I’ve said before, I don’t really see myself as a designer. I’m a patternmaker. My designing process is quite different. First of all, I don’t do sketches. When creating the pieces I post on Instagram, the starting point is a particular patternmaking technique and the final piece is a consequence of it.
So I’m happy to give the designing-task to my followers for change. It’s a fun way for me to challenge myself into creating pieces I wouldn’t otherwise have thought of. Naturally I will credit the designers in my posts and I’d also like to show you how I proceed in creating the patterns to each design. Might be interesting?
Anyways, this post was going to be about my latest design, the basket weave -top.
The making of
The pattern was quite simple to draw. I started by dividing the area into little blocks. At first I was going to use the whole area, but I was unable to divide it nicely, so I made a strapless top instead.
I moved the darts a bit towards the centre at the waistline so that the blocks would have a more similar size.
The next phase was to draw the pleat-lines. In my opinion they help to create the basket weave -effect. I alternated with horizontal and vertical pleats.
At this point I added the numbers because afterwards it would be difficult to know which block goes where.
I have explained how to add pleats here http://www.theshapesoffabric.com/2018/03/17/speaking-of-pleats/
But just a quick recap. I added 2 cm to create each pleat. They have to be added in a 90 degree angle.
Before cutting, fold all the pleats, correct the lines and add seam-allowances.
The finished pattern-piece looks like this.
So I had a total of 22 pieces. It took me a while to add pleats to each. Here they are in the end (each is numbered):
I decided that the vertical pleats would be white and the horizontals black. While cutting, I marked the starting and ending points of each pleat, so that I would know where to fold.
I pressed the pleats and stitched the edges to fix them in place.
The easiest thing was to sew the blocks together one row at a time.
And finally to attach all the rows together, matching the blocks. I think this would’ve also looked quite nice in one color only.
Next time I want to write about smocking and there will be a tutorial on the rose-sleeve, which was especially appreciated among the pieces I’ve done with that technique.