Mini Me: Make Coordinating Boho Outfit for You and Your Doll

This tutorial is about boho outfits. But since I have some catching up to do around here, I thought I’d make two tutorials in one: human vs. Barbie size. I often get requested tutorials on trendy styles, and I read that this summer, it’s all about boho chic.

If you’re wondering what boho chic means, well, it’s basically influenced by hippy styles. We have flowy maxi skirts and dresses, ruffles, fringes, embroidered and textured details, print fabrics, macrame, and such.

So, I put together two boho outfits: a ruffle dress (maxi length, of course) and a two-piece ensemble consisting of a peasant shirt and maxi skirt, both with ruffles. You’ll learn how to draft the patterns for yourself and your Barbie doll. As a base, we’ll use the basic bodice and basic skirt blocks.

DIY Boho Outfit: Maxi Dress

Here’s our first project.

It’s a maxi dress with ruffled sleeves, a tuck detail at the front, and a skirt that consists of gathered rows of rectangles, similar to a gypsy skirt. There’s a zipper at the c-back. The waist is not fitted, but you can wear the dress with a belt.

I made the sample in black viscose. It has little flowers printed on it.

The Bodice Pattern

The basic bodice block should have 4 or 6cm (1 5/8″-2 3/8″) of ease along the underarm line, depending on how fitted you want your dress. (You could even use the dartless bodice.) We only need the upper section, and you can ignore the waist darts.

1. Let’s rotate the bust dart towards the side seam. Re-center the dart tip about 3cm (1 1/8″) away from the bust point.
2. Then, remove 1cm (3/8″) of the little shoulder dart volume from the back shoulder tip. The rest of the dart will become ease. Redraw the shoulder line and the armhole.

3. After this, you can draw the new neckline. It has a V-shape, which will work great with the tuck details. I added a few reference measurements in the illustration but you can also use your own. Just ensure the new neckline flows smoothly between the front and back pieces.

Then, draw a 5cm (2″) wide panel around the front neckline and c-front of the bodice. This is where the tucks will go. There will be a seam at the c-front.

4. Measure the waist. By the way, to make things easier for yourself, adjust the front and back waistlines so that they are both the same size.

5. Draw lines for the tucks. These should be about 2cm (3/4″) apart. Each line represents the base of the tuck. Number the sections. Then, decide how wide you want the tucks to be, for example, 1cm (3/8″), so that you’ll know how much tuck allowance to add. It will be twice as much as the final tuck width.

Add tuck allowance between the sections. As there are so many tucks, it’s a good idea to use the tracing method. Draw a line in the center of each tuck allowance because that’s where they will be folded. You’ll find more info about tucks here.

Fold the tucks downward, adjust the lines, add seam allowance, and cut the pattern with the tucks folded.

Separate the panel from the rest of the pattern. You can use the section around the neckline as a facing to finish the edges.

Here’s a tip for sewing the tucks: Press a crease in the center of each tuck allowance (where the dashed lines are in the illustration above). This way, it’ll be easier to sew them.

The Skirt

The skirt pattern is easy. You don’t even need a pattern, just note down the measurements.

6. Decide the length of your skirt and the number of rows. Then, divide the total length by the number of rows. In this example, we’ll have three rows. Add seam allowances on both sides for the first two rows and seam and hem allowances for the last row.

Using the waist measurement of your bodice, calculate the length of the first row: bodice hem x 1.5 If both hemlines are the same size, you can use the same calculation for the front and back.

For row 2 you calculate the first row’s length x 1.5.

For row 3, calculate the second row’s length x 1.5 or 1.8 (for a richer ruffle).

The Sleeve

Finally, there’s the sleeve. Use the basic sleeve block that goes with the bodice. We’ll only need the upper section, as the ruffle will start 4cm (1 5/8″) above the elbow line.

Measure the new sleeve hem. You’ll need this measurement to calculate the ruffle length.

Again, the ruffle pattern is a rectangle, so you don’t necessarily need to draft a pattern for it. Decide how high you want the ruffle, then add 4cm (1 5/8″) to the top edge. This will create an additional ruffle.

Here, the ruffle is 25cm (10″) + 4cm (1 5/8″) high.

The length is sleeve hem measurement x 2. Add seam allowance to both short edges and hem allowances to the long edges.

You might wonder how to sew the sleeve. Start by hemming both edges of the rectangle. Then, sew two rows of gathering stitches where the dashed line is, 4cm (1 5/8″) below the top edge.

Gather to match the sleeve’s hemline. Before gathering, place a pin in the center of the sleeve so that you can distribute the gathers evenly.

After this, close the lateral seams of both sections and hem the sleeve. Finally, pin and sew the ruffle to the sleeve’s hem. The stitches should go in the middle of the two rows of gathering stitches. If it’s too difficult with the sewing machine, you can do this by hand.

The Pattern Pieces

Here are all the pattern pieces.

Add notches at both ends of the lines you drew in the center of the tuck allowances. This is where you will fold and press the tucks.

The ruffle pieces will be cut on the fold at the c-front and c-back (unless they become too long and need a seam). Leave the uppermost row open at the c-back so that you can insert a zipper.

The first row will be gathered to match the bodice waist. The second row will be gathered to match the first row’s lower edge, and the third row will be gathered to match the second row’s lower edge. Mark the c-front and c-back points with a pin before gathering.

Here are a few close-ups of the finished piece. The tuck matching isn’t perfect at the c-front, but oh well. The skirt can be decorated by attaching smaller ruffles or lace where the horizontal seams are.

Another option for the sleeves is to gather the ruffle hem, too. This way, you’ll get a balloon shape.

Boho Chic Dress for Barbie

Now, let’s draft the same dress in Barbie size!

Sometimes, people ask me how to adapt the pattern drafting instructions for such a tiny scale. I must admit I mostly eyeball it. However, for the purpose of this tutorial, I’ve included the measurements to give you an idea. There isn’t really any calculation. It’s more about what the pattern looks like. You know, proportions and such.

You can download a free basic pattern set for Barbie from the Free Downloads section located in the sidebar (or the bottom of the page if you’re on mobile). The PDF contains patterns for both the classic 80s-90s doll and the modern version. I made my samples for the modern Barbie.

This dress needed to be simplified, so don’t worry—there are no tucks! 😀 I also attached the sleeve ruffles normally instead of creating the double ruffle.

The Pattern

Here’s a quick recap of the dress pattern, converted in Barbie size. Leave out the waist darts. There’s no front panel and the basic block is already missing the back shoulder dart.

So, just enlarge the side seams slightly, rotate the dart, and draw the new neckline. You can also straighten the hemline a bit. Make the front and back waists the same size.

Measure the bodice waist to calculate the length of the first row of the skirt. In this case, you can obviously unite the front and back measurements. Use the full circumference measurements so it’ll be quicker to cut the rectangles.

Calculate times 1.5 for each row. On a small scale, the gathers will easily create bulk. I did x1.8 for the last row and I think it was too much.

I made each row 6cm (2.4in.) high. This includes a narrow seam allowance at both long edges.

As for the sleeves, chop the basic sleeve block, for example, 1cm (0.4in.) above the elbow line. Measure the hemline and make the ruffle twice as long.

Decide the ruffle height. I made mine 3,5cm (1.4in.) high. Add seam and hem allowances.

These are the final pattern pieces.

In doll size, the quickest way to finish the neckline is to line the bodice. I have a tutorial here.

Divide the skirt pieces in half and mark the points with pins before gathering. This will be the c-front position.

A Few Words on Sewing

Firstly, do yourself a favor and don’t use viscose… Cotton is so much easier!

Here’s the sleeve. This is actually easier than the larger version.

Sew a row of gathering stitches to the top edge of the sleeve ruffles and gather to match the sleeve hem. If you want to hem the ruffle, do it before gathering.

Then, sew the ruffle to the sleeve hem but don’t close the inseam.

Prepare the bodice like this: close the c-front seam and the shoulder seams. Close the darts.

Then, attach the sleeves to the armholes. Finally, close the bodice side seams and the sleeves’ inseams. This is similar to working with knits. If there’s a lining involved, sew it to the bodice neckline before attaching the sleeves.

Here’s the skirt. Sew a row of gathering stitches to the top edge of each row. Close the c-back seams, except for that of the first row (which you can close partially). Hem the last row before gathering.

Mark the c-front points and gather each row to match the lower edge of the row above. Pin and sew.

Finally, gather the uppermost row to match the bodice hemline. Pin and sew.

Add a closure to the c-back, for example, little snaps.

Here’s my Barbie in her new boho outfit. I think she’ll need some jewelry to complete the look. If you want to decorate the neckline to mimic the large version, you could attach decorative little ribbons.

DIY Boho Outfit Number 2: Peasant Shirt and Maxi Skirt

The second boho outfit consists of a peasant shirt and a maxi skirt, both decorated with ruffles. The skirt has a high slit. I was inspired by a skirt worn by a lady who sat next to me on the plane recently. She had a gorgeous boho chic style going on, complete with anklets.

The sample shirt is made of viscose, and for the skirt, I went with Swiss dot cotton. I actually wanted the skirt ruffle to be higher but I didn’t have enough fabric.

The Peasant Shirt Pattern

Let’s go in order, top to bottom.

For this shirt, I used the basic bodice block, but you can also utilize the dartless bodice if you prefer a looser fit style. This time, we’ll need the full length. Leave out the waist darts. You can also straighten the side seams if you want.

1. Rotate the bust dart towards the side seam. Redraw the dart legs, centering the dart 3cm (1 1/8″) away from the bust point.
2. Shorten the shoulder line to remove half of the shoulder dart width. Redraw the armhole.

3. Draw the back yoke seam, starting about 8cm (3 1/8″) below the back neckline. This line should pass through the dart tip. Cut the line so that you can close the remaining dart. Then, complete the yoke seam, ending at the armhole.

4. Add 5cm (2″) to the c-back below the yoke and lengthen the back piece by 8cm (3 1/8″), for example, at the c-back. Draw the new hemline shape, as shown below.

That extra width at the c-back will be gathered, Add a notch along the yoke seam where the gathers start. This should be about in the middle of the back piece.

5. Add a 2cm (3/4″) extension along the c-front line to create an overlap and lengthen the front piece by 4cm (1 5/8″), for example, at the c-front. Draw the new hemline shape, making sure you form a continuous line between the front and back pieces.

6. Draw the new neckline, making it a continuous line. Consider that there will be a ruffle, so leave some space for it. Then, measure the new neckline, the three sections separately: c-front/button placket, front neckline, and back neckline.

The ruffle pieces are rectangles, where the height is your desired ruffle height (plus seam and hem allowance). For the length, calculate each section separately, doubling the measurements. This way, you’ll know where to place the notches.

The right side (buttonhole side) will have a ruffle all the way down to the hemline, whereas, on the left side, the ruffle ends before the button placket. You can unite these two pieces at the c-back if the piece won’t become too long. Alternatively, you’ll have a c-back seam.

Finally, you’ll need a front facing piece (see the dashed line). Make it about 5-6cm wide (2″-2 3/8″). There’s no need for a back facing, as you’ll cut the yoke piece twice.

The Peasant Sleeve

A peasant shirt will need a peasant sleeve. This sleeve will have gathers at the sleeve cap and around the wrist. In addition, we’ll have a little ruffle cuff.

Trace the basic sleeve block that goes with the bodice.

1. Add 4cm (1 5/8″) of flare at both sides of the hem. Draw a line from the central notch down and then two more lines, distributed evenly on both sides.

2. We’ll now add volume where you drew the lines, twice as much to the hem as to the sleeve cap.

You can either separate the sections and tape them onto another piece of paper, adding volume in between. Or use the tracing method.

Here below you see the amounts I added. Aim for a continuous line at the hemline.

3. Then, redraw the sleeve cap, raising it by 5cm (2″). Add 4cm (1 5/8″) to the hem, or however high you want the ruffle at the wrist.

Add notches where the original hemline is: This is where you will gather the sleeve hem with an elastic.

Now we have all the pattern pieces needed for the shirt.

Interface the front facing. The yoke will be cut twice on the fold. The buttons will go along the c-front line.

Gather the sleeve cap between the armhole notches to match the armhole.

Cut a rounded tip for the shorter neckline ruffle. This is the side that will be gathered.

Here’s the finished sample.

The Maxi Skirt Pattern

For this pattern, you’ll need the basic skirt block.

1. Start by deciding the skirt length and the ruffle height. The ruffle height will be added to the skirt’s length, so you need this information to prepare the skirt pattern. Lengthen the skirt accordingly and add some flare to the side seams, trying to make them quite straight. Rotate the darts towards the hem.

2. If the c-back seam isn’t straight already, straighten it. Then, redraw the hemline, making it a continuous line between the front and back pieces. There should also be a right angle at the c-back.

You can add more volume with the slash & spread method. I did add some to my sample.

To create the slit, the left side seam will remain open, but there will be an overlap: The left back piece will continue towards the front at the waist.

3. As this is an asymmetrical skirt, you’ll need both sides of the front and back pieces. The right side will remain as it is and the left side will have the slit.

Decide how wide you want the overlap to be at the waist. Then, add what’s missing to the back piece and mark a notch on the front piece (see the dashed line). For more coverage, you can also continue the extension all the way to the hemline.

Remove a piece from the front piece. The more you remove, the larger the slit will be.

Measure the front and back hemlines and double the measurements to calculate the ruffle length. You’ll have a separate piece for each.

Here are the final pattern pieces.

If you add the zipper to the right side seam, you can unite the two back pieces at the c-back.

Add a notch in the middle of the ruffle pieces and a corresponding notch to the skirt’s hem. This way, you’ll distribute the gathers evenly.

You can add a straight waistband to your skirt, as shown in this tutorial.

Here are a few more pics of our second boho outfit.

Second Boho Outfit in Barbie Size

And then it’s time to make the miniature version!

Starting from the basic bodice pattern, here are the steps.

Straighten the side seams quite a bit and rotate the bust dart towards the side seam. Draw the yoke seam and add volume to the c-back.

Make the hem slightly longer and draw the curved shapes. Draw the new neckline and add a tiny overlap at the c-front. Measure the neckline and the c-front line for the ruffle.

The procedure for the peasant sleeve is the same as in large scale, but these are the numbers.

You should get something like this:

I don’t recommend making a front facing, unless it’s as wide as the remaining shoulder line.

My ruffle didn’t have a c-back seam and I initially cut it higher. After it was attached, I trimmed it to its final height.

Here’s a pic showing the ruffle before I trimmed it. I made an extra row of stitches to flatten the seam allowance.

And a picture of the sleeve before attaching it to the bodice. I gathered the sleeve cap to match the bodice armhole. I also gathered the hemline around the wrist using normal thread.

The Maxi Skirt in Mini Size

Trace the basic skirt block. Decide how long you want the skirt. For a floor-length skirt, use the measurements in the illustration, making the skirt 14cm (5.5in.) long. Add flare to the side seams, straighten the c-back seam, and rotate the darts towards the hemline. Redraw the hemline.

Then, mirror both pieces. In this case, we’ll unite the back pieces along the c-back.

Next, add the overlap to the back piece. This should reach about halfway towards the c-front. As the skirt’s hip is quite curved, you can just copy the waistline shape and then draw a straight line to the corner of the hemline.

Remove part of the front piece to create a slit. Then, measure the hemlines to calculate the ruffle lengths.

I made the ruffles 4,5cm (1.8in.) high.

These are the final pattern pieces. Add notches in the middle of the ruffle pieces and the skirt hemlines to distribute the gathers evenly.

The skirt will have an opening at the right side seam. You can add a tiny waistband and a snap to close it.

So, how did this outfit come out?

It’s pretty cute! You’ll need a few little snaps to the c-front of the shirt, too.

I hope you enjoyed my two-tutorials-in-one. 😀 What’s your favorite summer style?

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