Create Sculptural Sleeve Silhouettes Inspired by High Fashion Designs

This will be a mix between a sleeve pattern tutorial and one where I study high fashion designs by a particular designer. I selected five sleeve designs, each with a rather sculptural shape, but at least some of them are pretty wearable, too.

I attempted to reproduce a similar look, but with only pictures as a reference, it’s always a bit of a guessing game to figure out the patterns. In any case, the resulting sleeves do look more or less similar. I used different types of white cotton for each.

McQueen Gathered Sleeves

This sleeve is from the Spring Summer 2021 collection by (then) creative director Sarah Burton. There are various sleeves with a similar silhouette in the collection. I picked the plain white version, which you can see in the link above.

The Pattern

I’m starting from this sleeve, as it’s probably the easiest one to draft among the examples I chose.

The sleeve consists of four pieces: two for the front and two for the back. The central pieces will have a large, rounded shape.

1. Start by adjusting the hemline measurement to your liking evenly on both sides. (Note down the measurement.) There will be a cuff attached to it. Then, divide the sleeve block in half, from the central notch down. Divide the resulting two halves in half. You can use the 8cm as a reference. Mark notches where you want the gathers to go before separating the sections.

Using your hemline measurement, draft the sleeve cuff pattern: It’s a rectangle where the length is your sleeve hemline measurement plus 2cm to create an overlap (if you want one). The height is twice your desired cuff height, as the piece will be folded in half. Mine was 8+8cm high.

2. Then, we’ll draft the central seam shape. This one is quite large: the widest point extends over the original pattern by 18cm. I recommend drawing just one, and once you’re happy with the result, flip the piece wrong side up and copy the shape to the other sleeve piece.

3. After this, we’ll add volume with the slash & spread method to the two central pattern pieces. Divide the length between the two notches evenly, drawing lines where you want to add the volume.

I ended up drawing six lines and adding 6cm of volume at each. You can add even more if you want. I was debating whether I should also add a bit of volume to the outer edge, but in the end decided not to. However, if you want to create more “wrinkles” along the outer seam, you can test it.

Redraw the long edges after adding volume.

These are the pattern pieces. The sleeve cuff should be interfaced.

Sewing the McQueen Sleeve

This should be quite straightforward.

Start by sewing gathering stitches between the notches and gather the central pieces until they return to their original size. Sew the narrow pieces of the front and back sections in place, matching the notches. Press the seam allowances away from the gathers.

Then, close the outer seam. Press this seam open.

Close the inseam and press the seam allowance towards the back. Prepare and attach the cuff normally. You could match the cuff opening with the back seam of the sleeve and create a slit by leaving part of the seam open.

Then, sew two rows of gathering stitches between the armhole notches to make it easier to attach the sleeve to the bodice armhole.

Here’s my resulting sleeve. I think different kinds cottons will work nicely with this design. You can also add more volume or make the sleeve smaller. Or even bigger.

Viktor & Rolf Box Pleats

Viktor & Rolf have created several cool designs, and when I was looking for inspiration for this tutorial, I was sure to find a suitable sleeve in one of their collections. They didn’t disappoint!

This design is from Viktor & Rolf’s Fall/Winter 2018 Couture collection. It’s actually a whole jacket-and-pants ensemble adorned with box pleats that create a pretty striking silhouette. However, I was only interested in the sleeve. The collection itself is all white, and the pieces were inspired by their past designs.

Viktor & Rolf Sleeve Pattern

OK, this one isn’t difficult either, as you can use an existing jacket or blouse pattern. The only thing with jacket patterns is that you’d need one with a one-piece sleeve, which is quite rare. Therefore, the easiest thing is to add these box pleats to a blouse or shirt.

In the end, you only need to divide the sleeve pattern in half, take a few measurements, and draft the box pleat pattern.

Measure the sleeve length, the shoulder seam, and the hemline. This is where the box pleats will be sewn.

Then, decide how high you want the box pleats to be. In the original design, they are highest at the shoulder and then become narrower towards the hem. I went with 12cm at the shoulder and 9cm at the hem.

To make things easier, draw the initial rectangle as high as the highest point. In this case, 12cm.

The length of the rectangle is your shoulder seam + sleeve length + hemline circumference. Draw lines where the pleats will be, dividing the length evenly between the pleats. Each section should be about 4cm wide. If you want an even number, you can always adjust the hemline measurement a bit. Number the sections.

The pleats will maintain the same height at the shoulder seam: count how many sections you need to cover (approximately) the shoulder seam. For me, it was three, because 3x4cm=12cm. Mark this point.

The pleats will also maintain an identical height around the hem: calculate how many sections you need to cover the hemline circumference. For me, this was six sections. Adjust the rectangle height to 9cm (or any height you want) to cover the hemline circumference.

Draw the high-low shape between these two points.

Now, we’ve prepared the rectangle, and we can add pleat allowance between the sections. The amount will be twice the width of the sections. Let’s say they are 4cm wide. This means the amount of pleat allowance will be 8cm. I drew a little illustration to explain why. It shows how a box pleat will be folded.

This pattern piece will be rather long, so it’s a really good idea to use the tracing method to add pleat allowance. You copy one section at a time and add the required amount of pleat allowance at a right angle. Then, you align the following section to the opposite edge of the pleat allowance you just added, and trace that, and so on.

As the lower edge is a straight line, you can start by drawing a long line and align all the sections to it as you trace.

I also added half a pleat allowance to the beginning and the end, but this is optional.

Mark notches on both sides of the upper edge of the pleat allowances, and also mark the center points. Fold the pleats to adjust the line and add seam allowance to the upper edge before cutting with the pleats still folded. The piece will be cut lengthwise on the fold along its straight lower edge.

Here’s my actual pattern piece.

Sewing the Victor & Rolf Pleats

This sleeve was slightly unconventional to sew. I attached the two sleeve halves to the front and back of the bodice separately. It’s because it seemed like the easiest way to attach the pleats.

I prepared the pleats by first folding the piece lengthwise in half and then folding and pinning the pleats where my notches were. The double layer gives the pleats a nice structure.

Then, I sewed the pleats in place along the high-low side, the one with the raw edges. This way, they wouldn’t try to escape while sewing the pleated ruffle into the sleeve/shoulder seam.

After this, you sew the front and back sections together, sandwiching the pleats into the seam.

Finally, close the sleeve’s inseam and the bodice side seam. Then, sew the remaining pleats to the sleeve hem. The last step was quite fiddly in half scale, but it should be OK in full scale.

Here’s the sleeve:

Moschino Sculptural Sleeve

Something quite different. This sleeve comes from Moschino‘s Spring/Summer 2020, Picasso-inspired collection by Jeremy Scott. This was such a fun collection with lots of colorful pieces!

No pleats or gathers this time to create the sleeve silhouette. You’ll need neoprene or similar to hold the shape.

The Moschino Sleeve Pattern

I improvised this pattern using a basic raglan sleeve as a base. My plan was to guess, sew a toile, and correct errors. I managed to find pictures of the original sleeve taken from slightly different angles, and I also watched the runway show.

Here’s how I ended up drafting the piece. The explanation might make it sound more complicated than it was, so you can also just look at the illustrations. 😀

1. Using the shoulder notch as a reference (it marks the tip of the shoulder), I brought the sleeve shape about 6cm in so that it would rest on the shoulder.

You also need to take into account a separate triangular piece that will be sewn between the front and back pieces. It will cover part of the armhole circumference at the top of the sleeve: I removed its width from the main pieces.

Then, I drew the sleeve shape itself, extending 15cm over the original raglan sleeve. This shape was actually surprisingly difficult to get right, both in terms of inclination and shape. But don’t worry, you can adjust it when you make a toile.

There are two triangular pieces sewn between the front and back pieces. One at both ends to make the sleeve shape slightly more 3-dimensional. Not adding these would make the sleeve flat.

The two notches along the sleeve’s outer curve mark where the two triangular pieces end. Measure the seam lengths to draft the triangles.

There’s also a separate piece under the arm. Well, two pieces (front and back) that will be united. And a 6cm high cuff that’s slightly flared.

Copy the sleeve’s curved shape from the front piece to the back piece to ensure identical shapes along the outer curve.

2. Trace the two underarm pieces and add a bit of flare to the cuff section (see the arrows).

Draw the triangular pieces using the measurements you got from the sleeve piece. My upper triangle is 5cm wide at the top, and slightly curved. Adjust the top edge shape so that it creates a continuous line with the large sleeve pieces.

For the second triangle, I made the cuff section 6cm wide at the hem. Otherwise, this triangle is also 5cm wide at the start of the cuff.

Here are the pieces. You can unite the two underarm pieces to avoid an extra seam.

I recommend cutting a facing for the cuff to create more structure. I copied the cuff shape of all four pattern pieces one after the other (see the illustration). It became a bit curved due to the flare. Then you can make a lining to cover the rest of the sleeve.

Sewing the Moschino Sleeve

As mentioned, use neoprene or a similar material that will hold the shape. I made mine in half scale using a midweight cotton, so it was already strong enough. Make a toile before cutting the final fabric. This way, you can adjust the shape and fit.

Sew the triangular pieces first to one large piece, and then sew the second piece in place. You need to make a cut to the corners before the cuff section. Press the seams and then attach the underarm piece. Complete the sleeve by attaching the facing to the hem.

Here it is. I think it could’ve been even larger. Of course, I couldn’t resist the temptation to also roughly sketch the Picasso-inspired decoration on my sleeve!

80s Mugler Pleated Sleeve

Back to pleats and another statement sleeve. This sleeve belongs to a golden dress Thierry Mugler presented as part of his autumn-winter 1984 collection L’Hiver des Anges. The show was inspired by angels, saints, and the divine.

I initially bumped into a picture of this dress on Pinterest. Given that the collection was from the 80s, it was difficult to find reference photos, let alone videos of the piece, but I was determined to try making it anyway. I did find a few different versions, mainly on social media. The runway dress had massive sleeves. However, I also found pictures of a more subtle version on eBay.

So, my version is a mix of whatever I managed to put together using the pictures I had.

The Mugler Sleeve Pattern

You can probably use a fabric that has already been pleated, but I added the pleats, too, to get the full experience. 😀 It’s not difficult, it just takes time.

Start by dividing the sleeve in half from the central notch down so that the sleeve will be aligned with the shoulder seam.

Then, extend the sleeve by 20cm (for example) at the top with a straight line, and draw the new shape, as shown. First to one piece, and then copy the shape to the other half.

Draw evenly spaced horizontal lines where the pleats will be. They should be about 2cm apart. Number the sections. Here you can see why it takes quite a while to complete the pattern and why you might consider pleated fabrics.

With this many pleats, you will want to use the tracing method to add pleat allowance, which is twice as much as the distance between the lines. These will be knife pleats.

Take a long piece of pattern paper. Start at the hem, trace one section at a time, and add pleat allowance at a right angle between the sections. Remember to note down the numbers so you can keep track of which section to trace next. Add the armhole and central notches to the pieces, too.

Fold all the pleats upward and adjust the lines. Add seam allowance and cut the piece with the pleats still folded to get the correct pleat allowance shapes. There will be a seam only at the inseam and the armhole, but if you want to finish the free edges, add enough extra to make the fold. I actually ended up modifying the shape after having sewn the toile.

Here are the pattern pieces after cutting with the pleats folded. You should also add notches on both sides of each pleat allowance at both ends to indicate where to fold.

Sewing the Mugler Sleeve

The first step was to fold all the pleats upward, as planned, using the notches as a reference. I pinned and pressed the folds, and then sewed them in place along the inseam and armhole edges. The cotton was a bit too heavyweight, but I made it work.

Then, I sewed the inseam, attempting to match the pleats. Here you can see that the shape was going to be too curved. I trimmed it afterwards.

After examining the various pictures of the original design online, I decided the two layers of the outer edge of the sleeve would need to be stitched together flat (at intervals). Ideally, this would be done by hand, but I used the sewing machine. The stitches go inside the pleats so they remain sort of hidden. The space between the stitches and the free edge becomes narrower towards the hem.

I wasn’t sure what to do with the top edge, as in some pictures it seemed closed, while in others it seemed open. I left it open.

Here’s my version of the Mugler sleeve in cotton. I was considering getting a piece of lightweight golden fabric and redoing the sleeve, but in the end, I didn’t go for it. The pleats took so much time! Maybe later. 😀

It would’ve been prettier, though…

Capucci Box Sleeve

This sleeve is based on a design by Roberto Capucci from 1969. I couldn’t find a picture of this exact sleeve online. It’s from a book I have, Lo scultore della seta. Roberto Capucci, il sublime della moda by Gianluca Bauzano, which presents designs by this amazing Italian designer. You can spot another box-shaped sleeve on this page, but it’s slightly larger.

Capucci has created various designs characterized by the box shape, which are part of his Linea a Scatola, the box line silhouette.

The Capucci Sleeve Pattern

This pattern isn’t based on any sleeve block. However, you can use a sleeve pattern to copy the underarm line shape, if you want. In the original design, the sleeve was attached to a strapless bodice, so you only need the underarm section to match the bodice measurements.

But first, decide how large you want the box to be: height, width, and depth. There will be a seam under the arm, and the box is open at its lower edge.

My box was 20cm wide at the front and back, and slightly wider, 22cm at the sides. The underarm side will be divided in half. The height was 24cm. The “roof” piece in this case is 20cm x 22cm. Mark notches at each corner of the “wall” piece, where the box will be folded.

Then, we will draw the armhole shape as shown, and add pleats.

The armhole shape is divided in half. As mentioned, you can use the basic sleeve block to copy the shape. And draw the rest freehand. I recommend trying it on and adjusting the shape if needed.

Draw lines where the pleats will be, dividing the box height evenly. In this case, the lines are 4cm apart. Divide the “roof” piece evenly as well. I got 5 pleats, both to the “roof” and the “walls”.

Here are pictures of my test box. I wanted to see if the armhole shape worked.

Take another piece of pattern paper to add pleat allowance. You will use the original pattern to cut the lining.

I added 6cm of pleat allowance to create the knife pleats. Trace one section at a time, adding pleat allowance between the sections. You should also add hem allowance to the lower edge. Remember to include the vertical notches where the box shape will be folded.

The roof piece is straight, so it’s ready. Just add notches on both sides of each pleat allowance so you’ll know where to fold.

The larger piece needs to be cut with the pleats folded downward around the armholes to get the correct pleat allowance shapes.

Add extensions at the top, as shown. This is probably easier to understand while you’re drafting it, because you can see it live and adjust the shape. Basically, it’s a tiny little sleeve cap that rests on the shoulder.

Add notches on both sides of each pleat allowance.

The lining should be interfaced to get more structure. I didn’t interface my half-scale sleeve, and it was a bit wobbly, even though I lined it with midweight cotton.

Sewing the Capucci Sleeve

This time I have more pictures for you. The first two show the little extension. You have two of these per sleeve. Sew the right sides together, trim the seam allowance, and then turn the right sides out. The short lateral edges will be sewn together at the top of the sleeve once you’ve completed folding and stitching the pleats in place.

Fold and press the pleats using the notches as your reference. Stitch them in place at the edges. Then, attach the roof, making a cut to the seam allowance at each corner. Close the inseam.

After this, you can press the four corners of the box shape. The pleats will need to be stitched at the corners, too, ideally by hand, to keep them down. But if you want to use the sewing machine, you need to do it now.

Prepare the box lining in the same way. It’s much quicker without the pleats, of course.

Now that you have both layers ready, you can sew them right sides together around the armhole. Clip the seam allowance, turn the right sides out, and press flat.

Finally, fold the hem of the main layer on top to cover the lining edge.

Here you can see the stitches that hold the pleats down. I also added them at the bottom to keep the hemline in place.

And here’s the finished sleeve. This was surprisingly difficult to photograph, showing its 3-dimensional shape.

This was also the last sleeve silhouette I have for you. There were a few more sleeves on the list, but I figured the post would become too long. 😀