Accidental X-Mas Tree Sewing Project

This X-Mas sewing project was actually completely unplanned. As I was sewing a skirt, I noticed it kind of looked like an X-mas tree. So, I tweaked the pattern slightly, and now you can download it from the Free Downloads section and make one for yourself, too! This post will show you how.

The technique used is contoured tucks. The pattern includes two template pieces for sewing those.

Specs

The height of the completed tree is 24cm (9.5in.)

You’ll need about 35cm (13 3/4in.) of woven fabric, preferably midweight and rather stiff. You’ll also need a piece of bias tape to finish the lower edge; the hem, if you will. For the top edge, I found the bias tape to be too stiff. Cut a strip of a lighter-weight fabric in a similar color as your tree on the bias instead.

And finally, you’ll need metal wire, narrow Rigilene boning, or a similar material for the tree base to maintain its round form. The aforementioned bias tape will create a casing for it.

I used a woven, glittery fabric. It was admittedly too lightweight, but it ended up working out OK, more or less. I didn’t even ask what the fabric was. I just saw the glitter and went for it! 😀

Cutting the Pattern and the Tree

Print the pattern in its actual size, either in color or grayscale. The first page of the PDF has test squares, so you can just print that and check first. Although, as we are not making clothes, it doesn’t really matter if the tree becomes smaller or larger. Tape the two sections together, following the guidelines and marks.

I included an extra template for the tucks, but feel free to use just one if you manage. These don’t have seam allowance, just a little “handle” along the left edge.

The pattern has a 0,5cm (1/4in.) seam allowance, and the piece is cut once on the fold. There’s a notch in the center of each tuck, at both ends. Make little cuts to the seam allowance so you’ll know where to fold. Also at the c-front.

Here’s an alternative version. If you want the grainline to remain the same throughout the tree, you can easily convert this pattern into panels: Separate one section between the notches, move the grainline to the center, and add seam allowance to both long edges. Cut the piece 10 times.

Sewing the Contoured Tucks

I made a quick video summary of the sewing process. You’ll find it here.

Here’s how to sew the tucks. Start in the center, simply by folding the fabric in half, right sides together. Pin the template on top, aligning the tips to the fold. Leave a seam allowance at the top and bottom edges. If you chose panels, you’ll also have a seam allowance at the outer edge.

Sew along the edge of the template and remove it when you’re done.

Find the next pair of notches and fold the right sides together. Pin the template and sew. Continue until you’ve completed all the tucks, except for the one closest to the open seam.

Then, trim off excess fabric, as shown below. Make a cut at each corner, and also at the start and end points of each tuck.

Turn the right sides out and press the shapes flat. Don’t worry if you don’t manage to create sharp tips; round ones will work nicely for a tree!

Here you can see the difference between unpressed and pressed tucks:

Contoured tucks will also need to be stitched along their base. That’s the next step. This row of stitches should only “separate” the little triangles.

Then press the piece again to flatten the back. You probably need to alternate by pressing the triangles first in one direction and then in the other (because these should not remain flat).

Finishing the Edges and Closing the Last Seam

Before closing the last seam, we’ll finish the top and bottom edges.

My fabric was quite lightweight, so I cut a bias strip from the same fabric for the top edge. Make it about 2cm (3/4in.) wide. The length should be slightly less than the top edge of the tree. You can always trim off excess length and width.

Pin the right sides together. The seam should start and end where the triangular shapes’ base will be.

It’s easier to sew with the tree piece on top. The seam should go exactly where the triangular shapes start, so you won’t leave holes.

Trim the seam allowance slightly and press the bias strip towards it.

Then, pin the bias tape to the bottom edge in the same way. Use the template to find out where the triangle’s base will end up (see the arrow). Remember that, in this case, there’s a seam allowance also at the outer edge.

After completing the seam, press the bias tape towards the seam allowance.

Now you can close the last seam. Bring the right sides together, aligning the edges. Add a few pins to keep the two layers aligned, then pin the template on top, leaving a seam allowance on all three edges.

The first tuck is a bit tricky, as there’s not much space due to the other tucks. This is also why I needed to leave a hole to the top edge of the tree.

Pin the two bias strips as well to close their short edges.

Sew along the edge of the template as usual. Be careful not to catch any of the other tucks into the seam.

Then, remove the template and trim the seam allowance. You now have a corner to cut also at the top and bottom of the seam, where the bias strips start (see the arrows).

Turn the right sides out, press flat, and stitch along the base, as you did with the other tucks.

Hand Stitching

Let’s hand-stitch the upper edge’s bias strip down. I used a matching thread and simply stitched with the right side on top.

Then pin the bias tape to the wrong side of the bottom edge and hand-stitch it in place, as you would when hemming a skirt. Leave a hole to insert the boning into the casing.

Insert the boning/wire. Leave a slight overlap and attach the two ends of the boning (or wire) together. Depending on your material, you might use hand stitching, masking tape, or a crimp bead. Then, close the hole.

Here’s the completed base.

The X-Mas Tree is Ready

Here’s my little tree.

As a bonus, you also got a nice exercise for sewing contoured tucks. 😉

By the way, if you want to make your tree shorter, just remove the height of one or two triangles from the bottom, parallel to the original hem.

I made a silver version, shortening it by one triangle (4cm). I also tested making this divided into panels while I was at it. Just a heads-up: I noticed the top edge easily grows bigger if you’re not careful with the seam allowances. Other than that, it seems slightly more stable.