Summer is quickly approaching here in Milan, and that inspired me to write about skirts. Not just any skirts of course, but panel-skirts. I want to include more wearable designs in my blog and this is a perfect opportunity!
There are two ways to draft the pattern. You can either draw directly one panel, which is then repeated, or you can start from the basic skirt pattern and draft the panels on top of it. In my opinion, the first case works best when it comes to flared skirts and the second one is for the more slim-fitting designs.
Single panel -approach to panel-skirts
First you need to decide how many panels your skirt should have. Choose as many as you like -and are willing to sew. In my example, there are 6 panels.
The measurements needed are:
- the distance between waist and hip
You might want to add a few cm (almost an inch) of ease to the hip-measurement unless you are using a stretch fabric.
Divide the waist and hip -measurements by the number of panels.
Now you have all the information needed for drafting the pattern.
Start by drawing a rectangle which has the length of your skirt and width of your hip-measurement and divide it lengthwise in two. Add the hip-line.
Mark the waist-measurement and draw lines towards the hip as in the picture. That’s your minimum-width for the upper-part of your panel.
Now you get to choose the profile and width of your skirt. I drew 3 different versions.
Here’s how the above examples look like. As you can see, the first one doesn’t have much sense, unless dividing the skirt is a design-element. What I mean is that you could just as well draft directly an A-line skirt.
The second one has opening at the centre back, so you get a seam also at the centre front.
And the third one has a different profile thing going on.
This type of construction gives you so many alternatives! I’m going to stick to wearable designs and show you two more ideas for panel-skirts. Both have 8 panels.
These are a bit more tricky to draft. You can draft the distorted panels with the help of the basic panel. Trace two of them one next to the other and then draw the shapes on top like this:
Just remember to maintain the right waist- and hip measurements. And adjust both sides so that they can be sewn together (=they need to have the same length).
Here’s the twisted panel.
And the diagonal panel.
From basic pattern to panels
In this case the panels are the result of stylelines that separate them from the pattern. It’s a great way to get rid of the waist-darts. But this also gives you the opportunity to use a different fabric or add pleats or gathers to only some of the panels.
You have probably seen pencil-skirts separated into panels. That’s my first example here.
At the base, there’s the basic skirt pattern.
I separated the panels absorbing the darts. You can move the darts if you think the central panel remains too wide or too narrow.
There’s going to be a kick-pleat in the back, so I marked the position.
The panel number 2 in the front will have some gathers.
Then I copied each panel and added a bit of volume with the slash and spread -method to the panel 2. I marked the area so it’ll match the panel number 1.
These are the final pattern-pieces:
And this is the skirt:
My second example is also quite a typical design when it comes to panel-construction. It’s the mermaid-skirt (or however it’s called?)
This time there are 8 panels. Having all these seams in the skirt gives you more control over the fit and the shape. If you want to exaggerate you could even add godet’s in between the panels.
This is how I drafted the pattern starting from the basic skirt. I chose to make the backside a bit longer.
Just remember to measure how much space you need to walk, so that you don’t make the skirt too narrow at its narrowest point, right under the knees. Here too it helps if you have a stretchy fabric.
You can give the final shape to the ”tail” after you’ve copied all the pattern-pieces. To get symmetrical patterns from knees to the ground, you can first adjust one side and then fold the pattern in half and copy the shape to the remaining side.
Here’s the skirt:
This is where my tour on wearable panel-skirts ends, but I’m not done with the theme yet! Next time I’ll introduce some more sculptural designs that I’ve done using this versatile technique.
This tutorial has been updated on 7.6.20.