From Half-Scale Sleeve Pattern Experiments to Full-Scale Sleeves

I often get requests to write tutorials on sleeve patterns. There are quite a few already, but I decided to create a new one as I hadn’t published any sleeve tutorials for a while. This time, something fun!

I think we can all agree that sleeves are an important part of a blouse or dress design. And by changing the sleeve, the whole look can easily be changed, too.

The timing of this tutorial coincides with the period my Domestika course on sleeve patterns was published. It works both ways: maybe you’re reading this tutorial, getting excited about the possibilities of sleeve patterns, and want to explore the subject some more. Then you should have a look at my course. 🙂 Here’s the link. I included a basic blouse pattern that comes with a basic sleeve pattern you can alter.

And if you found the course already, this tutorial will give you some more ideas for sleeve designs and how to draft them. Just be warned, these are quite special sleeves! 😀

Anyways, I picked some of my favorite sleeve pattern experiments I’ve published on Instagram these past few years and made them in full-scale so that I could try them on. I must admit it took me longer than usual to complete the tutorial, as I was having so much fun with these sleeves. It was a real dopamine project!

All the materials came from my stash. I might use a few of these sleeves to make a complete garment later on.

I drafted the pattern using a basic sleeve pattern. So, if I later want to make a dress or blouse with the sleeve, I’ll just use the bodice pattern that goes with the sleeve and they will be a match.

The Flounce Sleeve

Without further ado, let’s start with the first sleeve design: The flounce sleeve. In this case, it’s a short(ish) sleeve covered in full-circle flounces. I have a flounce tutorial here.

The final look of this sleeve depends on the material. You can make it more subtle using lightweight, drapey fabric. Or sculptural if you choose a stiffer material. I obviously made both!

The Pattern

Start by tracing your sleeve block, decide on the length, and divide it into 8 sections, as shown below. There will be a flounce at each line.

Ensure that the central line coincides with the central notch so that the flounce will match the shoulder seam. You won’t need flounces under the arm, so keep the lines between the armhole notches.

Measure the lines. These will become seams where the flounces will be inserted.

You’ll need the line lengths you just measured to calculate the full circle flounce radius. If you want to draft fewer pattern pieces, you can use the same measurements for two seams (if these are roughly the same length).

The calculation is as follows: seam length divided by 3.14, divided by 2. For example, 20cm/3.14 =6,4cm/2 =3,2cm

This is the radius of the inner circle. Use a compass. You can draw half circles and cut the pieces on the fold to save paper.

In this example, we have high-low flounces. Draw the outer edge shape. I’ve written the measurements I used in the illustration above, but you can make yours smaller, too. The center of the flounce will be wider than the two tips.

Here are the pattern pieces. Each flounce will have two layers so that you can finish the edges. This also gives more structure. Both sleeves will have a total of 7 flounces.

Sewing

I made the flounces in midweight linen that was rather stiff. The rest of the sleeve is in cotton sateen.

Once you’ve cut your flounces, pair them and sew the outer edges together. Trim the seam allowance before turning the right sides out and pressing the flounces flat. Then, clip the seam allowance of the inner edge so that you can stretch out the piece.

On the right, you can see all the flounces prepared and the 8 sections of the sleeve. Keep them in the correct order.

The flounces will be sewn into the seams. The lengths should match once you stretch out the inner edge of the flounce. After completing this step, you can close the inseam.

Finish the hemline with a little facing, a bias binding, or line the sleeve.

I was so happy with how this sleeve turned out!

As mentioned, I also made it in viscose. Well, actually this was part of a whole blouse, but here’s just the sleeve. As you can see, it looks quite different. The high-low flounces have width at both ends and hang relatively flat.

Diagonally Pleated Sleeve

This one is based on an old sleeve pattern experiment of mine from 2016. Back then, I didn’t post pattern instructions, so all I had was a partial picture of the pattern, and I tried to figure out the steps.

I didn’t quite nail it, but it became an interesting sleeve nonetheless.

The idea of the pattern is based on a lantern sleeve. It’s just that the extra volume goes inside the pleats, so the silhouette remains quite flat. At the same time, the pleats are forced up by changing the direction of the diagonal lines at the bottom of the sleeve. Yeah, I don’t know how I came up with this brain teaser! 😀

The Pattern

Here’s the initial “lantern sleeve”. I divided the sleeve horizontally into two sections. Then, I drew the first diagonal line starting at the central notch. The line changes direction at the horizontal seam.

Once you have the first line, you can fill in the rest of the diagonal lines parallel to the first one. I left about 4cm (1 5/8″) between the lines.

The dashed line is an extra line you can fit into the sleeve if you want. I left it out, as it basically remains under the arm. But if you prefer a symmetrical result, you can add it.

At this point, trace the sleeve piece so that you’ll have a pattern for the lining.

Then, you need to add volume for the pleats. Start by separating the two horizontal sections.

At the upper section, add 3cm at the top and 8cm at the bottom between the diagonal sections. Add 5cm at the top of the outermost pleats, as these are shorter. Mark the center points (see the dashed lines).

At the bottom, only do slash & spread, adding 8cm between all the sections. Mark the center points.

Then, adjust the shapes of the pleats along the horizontal seam: The uppermost pleats have pointed tips that are 5cm wide on both sides. The lowermost pleats need to match these, so they will have v-shaped holes that are 5cm wide on both sides. Use the central lines as your guide when adjusting the shapes.

Fold the upper edge of the pleats along the central lines and then fold all the pleats towards the back. This is similar to folding tucks. Adjust the sleeve cap shape and cut with the pleats folded to get the correct pleat allowance shape.

Finally, divide the lowermost section into two pieces, as it can’t remain overlapped.

Here are the pattern pieces. Cut each twice. The grainline is rather impossible because of the shape of the pieces. Just cut it any way you want. The only rule is to cut the two lowermost pieces so that the grainline is the same for both.

Add notches where the pleats are if you cannot tell where to fold otherwise.

Sewing

I made this sleeve in gray, light/midweight denim. I think a stiff material works the best.

Start by re-uniting the two lowermost pieces.

After this, you just need to sew the horizontal seam as you do with lantern sleeves. It’s just that here, the seam has an odd shape with lots of corners to clip. You need to sew a little section at a time.

The sleeve might look rather strange but keep going. Once you’ve completed the seam, press the seam allowances. I pressed, alternating between directions to avoid creating bulk.

Then, fold and top-stitch the pleats. The center of the folds should end up where the pointed tips are along the horizontal seam.

Attach the lining to the hemline and close the inseams in one go.

The result! Initially, I wasn’t sure if I liked this sleeve. It was so weird. But then I got used to it and decided it was kind of cool.

The Panel Sleeve

I’ve done several panel sleeve pattern experiments. I think it’s an excellent way to create a cool texture and sculptural shapes. In this case, I went with large, curved panels, trying to mimic a balloon sleeve shape. I sewed two versions, one in lightweight denim and the other one in silk organza. I also played with the seam allowances, leaving them in and out.

The Pattern

The first step is to decide how long you want the sleeve. Then, you divide the sleeve pattern into panels. The more panels you have, the fancier the result. I went with 10 panels. Find the mid point of each line.

Then, decide how large the curves should be. I have reference measurements for you in the illustrations, but as always, feel free to adjust them as you prefer. The measurement refers to the widest point, measured in the center of the curve.

The largest curve is in the middle. The curves become smaller towards the sides.

Draw all the curves in one direction at first, and then mirror the shapes so that there’s an identical curve on both sides of each line.

Finally, trace all 10 pieces. I colored panels 3 and 10 as examples.

The idea is first to find the initial rectangular panel piece and then add the curves on both sides. Mark notches where the curves start and end if it’s not visible from the pattern shape. Each piece will be cut twice to make two sleeves.

Sewing Panel Sleeves

The key to sewing these sleeves is to keep the panel pieces in the correct order.

Here’s the denim sleeve.

Pin and sew the panels together along their curved edges, proceeding in order.

Sew from notch to notch.

Then, trim the seam allowances and turn the right sides out. Press flat.

This sleeve hemline is easiest to finish by lining the piece, like I showed with the previous sleeve.

Here’s what this panel sleeve version looks like. I didn’t line it, so the hemline looks unfinished.

How about the organza version? Here are a few pics I took while I was sewing the sleeve.

I decided to leave the seam allowances outside this time, which made it quicker to complete as there was no need to press the panels. Handy!

Here’s the final look.

Organza gives this sleeve a special look as the panels are in constant movement, floating around.

Accordion Pleat Shoulders

Here’s an easier pattern where you won’t even need a sleeve block! Using accordion pleats, we’ll add these cool Disney villain-style spiked shoulders to any bodice pattern. You’ll only need a stiff fabric to make them work.

The Pattern

Start by drawing a few guidelines. A horizontal guideline will define the width of the base. This shape will end up on your shoulder so that the shoulder seam is in the middle. For adults, you could do 16-18cm.

Mark the midpoint and draw a perpendicular line upward. This will become the height of the accordion pleats. I made mine 16cm high. Finally, decide the depth of pleat. It could be 8cm, for example.

Draw the triangular shapes with the help of your guidelines, as shown. There should be 1,5cm between the two shapes at the bottom on both sides.

Then, adjust the lines so that they become slightly curved. This piece will be used for the accordion pleats in the middle. In addition, you’ll need a cover at both ends. So, add another curved line below the triangle.

In this example, there will be four accordion pleats per shoulder. This means that we’ll need to cut the narrower piece 12 times and the larger cover piece four times. You’ll sew two pieces together to get one accordion pleat.

As the base of each piece is 1,5cm wide, the finished shoulder piece will measure 8×1,5cm at the bottom, which is 12cm. You can adjust the measurements by changing the width and number of the pieces.

Sewing Accordion Pleats

Here are the accordion pleat pieces I cut in rather heavy-weight polycotton.

Pair the pieces so that both sides get two basic accordion pleats and two with a cover piece on one side.

Sew the outer edges of the pairs together.

Then, trim the seam allowance around the tips before turning the right sides out and pressing.

Unite the pleat pieces along their inner edges.

You can also finish the remaining raw edges of the cover pieces.

Uniting to the Bodice

Now you might be wondering how to attach these. I was actually thinking that adding snaps might be a good option. But, you can also create a seam and sew the pleats in place. Or just sew them on top of the bodice, if you want an even quicker way.

Here’s how you can adapt a pattern: Cut the bodice pattern pieces and place them on the mannequin or yourself, the way they would be sewn. Pin the accordion pleats to the shoulder.

Mark the position onto the pattern and adapt the neckline to go with the new shape. There will be a separate layer underneath the pleats to maintain the original shoulder shape. It consists of the pieces you cut off from the bodice pattern to attach the pleats.

Here I’ve replaced the shoulder piece with the accordion pleats. And then, I attached the original piece under the pleats, sewing it to the same seam allowance. You get a more polished look.

Here’s what the accordion pleat shoulders look like. I guess we could call this a vest.

Raglan Sleeves in Neoprene

This is one of my more recent sleeve pattern experiments. I already knew I’d like to test it with neoprene. It’s a bolero design.

I used Shingo Sato’s bamboo petal technique, which creates these voluminous bumps(?) in neoprene. Sadly, there was only enough material for one sleeve in my stash, but I hope to find more in the store to complete the piece!

The Pattern

You’ll need a raglan sleeve pattern for this one. Adjust the raglan seams to create the bolero shape. Add an opening with an overlap at the c-front. Separate narrow panels that become the undersleeve, as shown. My sleeve was full-length, by the way.

Then, divide the remaining sleeve pieces evenly into sections that meet at the outer seam.

Add volume using the slash and spread method, cutting towards the outer seam. The bamboo petals are folded like box pleats but they have a conical shape. For reference, I spaced the lines 4cm (1 5/8″) apart and added 8cm (3 1/8″) of volume for each fold. This way, the bamboo petal folds didn’t overlap.

You’ll need to divide the sleeve lengths into two pieces because otherwise, they will become overlapped.

Cut notches at the tips and around the petals, and also where the dashed lines are, so that you know where to fold.

Sewing The Bamboo Petals

Cut the pieces, including the notches for the bamboo petal folds (see the arrows). Unite the sleeve pieces where you separated them.

Then, fold and pin the bamboo petals, following the notches you cut. Stitch them in place and attach the undersleeve piece. Once you have both the front and back sleeves ready, unite the two, matching the notches along the outer seam.

This is where my pictures end, as I couldn’t finish the piece. But, basically, you sew both sleeves, then attach the c-back piece and finish the edges.

But look how cool the (one) sleeve turned out!

It feels sturdy but not too tight.

Bonus: Sculptural Sleeve

This was more like a faux leather test than an actual sleeve pattern test, but I thought it would be useful for someone, so I included it in this tutorial.

I quickly added a few triangles onto a lantern sleeve pattern and then added volume to the shapes. I think there should be more triangles to create a nicer design, but you get the idea.

The Pattern

First, we’ll need a lantern sleeve pattern. I added reference measurements here to turn a basic sleeve into a lantern sleeve using the slash & spread method.

The uppermost piece ends about 4cm (1 5/8″) below the armhole, and the lowermost piece is 8cm (3 1/8″) high.

Then, you can draw the triangle shapes on top. I made a little group in the center.

You need to unite the tips of the triangles to style lines that end at the edge of the sleeve pattern. Otherwise, the pattern won’t lay flat and/or you’ll have overlapped sections once you add the heights.

Here’s how to add height when using faux leather.

First, add a parallel line outside each line, about 4mm away. This way, you can sew the folds and get neat edges.

Then, add the height at a 90-degree angle. I added 4cm (1 5/8″).

Now, let’s pretend this is triangle number 1 from earlier. We’ll add sections A and B to the pattern.

See where they end up? Similarly, you can now add triangle number 4 underneath. Remember to start with the height.

If you find it easier, prepare each triangle separately and tape the pieces together.

Here’s what I got in the end. The uppermost section is all in one piece

Sewing

Before sewing, cut notches at each angle of each triangle and where their edges end, covering the entire seam allowance (see the arrows).

Then, using the notches as your reference, fold the top edges of the triangle you’re working on, as shown below. This is where we added 4mm.

Sew between the notches, keeping the triangle’s top edge on top. Start and stop stitching where the notches end.

After completing all three edges, close the seams at the three angles of the triangle.

Then, the triangle is ready. Work your way through all the triangles in the same way, and then close the style line seams, too.

If you want to enhance the base of the triangles, too, you can stitch the folds from the inside.

Finally, sew the two sections of the lantern sleeve together and close the inseam.

And what did the final sleeve look like? Hmmm… Not your most usual sleeve for sure!

And that was the last sleeve pattern experiment. Any favorites? Which one do you think I should use for a garment?

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