Have you tried any Origami or other TR Cutting techniques yet? If this is the first time you hear about those, I’m talking about Shingo Sato’s TR Cutting School. You can find several articles about it here on my blog, too. The Bamboo Bodice is perhaps the most famous example and you have probably bumped into that design at least a few times on social media.
This year I’ve been choosing blog post themes based on requests and these are 3 of the most requested TR Cutting designs: the layered bodice, the spiky bodice and the origami vortex. I’ll now try to explain how they are constructed.
Layered Bodice
Layering is one of my personal favorites among TR Cutting techniques. I have published a couple of tutorials on the subject. You can find the basics here.
Layering is kind of like pleating, but with curved shapes. And as you can’t fold the curved shapes, you need to separate the pieces: there’s a facing under each layer and each layer starts at the base of the facing of the previous layer.
Now, this gorgeous bodice design was one of the tasks in 2015 TR Masters’ Challenge. The bodice front is covered with a spiral of curved layers. The darts get absorbed, because the layers work also kind of like style lines.
Before starting, unite the two darts of your basic bodice (if you haven’t done so yet). This goes for all of the 3 designs presented here.
Layered Bodice Pattern
Copy the whole front piece.
Here are the steps for drafting the pattern. Basically, you need begin by drawing the outer edge of the layers on the bodice.
1. Only the first line on the left touches the dart point. The rest of them start each from the previous line, Near the dart point. You need to draw them like this, because otherwise you won’t have enough space in the middle when you’re sewing the pieces together.
Because of the darts, you’ll only be able to draw the lines at the upper part of the bodice as seen here. Draft the last one partly on top of the bust dart.
2. Next, draw the facing for each layer (the pink dashed line). The facing for layer number 6 has to pass through the dart point so that the dart gets absorbed.
I colored the facing number 2 just to illustrate the area you’ll then have to trace.
Trace the first 6 layers and their facings. Remember to start each layer at the base of the layer of the previous layer (see the next picture).
Rotate the darts to the sides as shown in the picture, so that you’ll be able to draft the rest of the layers.
3. Adjust the two lines of layer number 6 that got messed up when you closed the right dart.
Draft the rest of the layers and their facings, and finally, trace all of the remaining pattern pieces. In the picture you can see an example for layer number 8 colored.
4. You should have something like this when you’re done.
Sewing the Bodice
Just a few notes on how to sew this bodice. Start by attaching the facing to each layer. Keep track of which layer is which so you don’t mix the order.
Trim the seam allowance a bit and clip notches before turning the right sides out and pressing.
Here you can see the layers, each with their facing attached, before sewing them together.
It’s probably easiest to attach the layers in pairs, because the center of the spiral will get crowded.
The final thing will be to stitch the edges of the bodice to fix the layers in place.
Spiky Bodice
Often there’s an official name for the TR Cutting techniques, but this one doesn’t seem to have one. So I’m just calling it the Spiky Bodice. 😀
This technique is particularly suitable for sculptural shapes. It’s from a TR Masters’ Challenge, too. I think it was in 2017. The one presented here is not the exact design, but just the general technique.
I actually loved this technique so much that I ended up using it for a bodice that was featured in a photoshoot.
Assistant @sliceofdaisy
Fashion @shapesoffabric
Styling @cinodavide
Model @ybingbing_
The Pattern
1. Also in this case, unite the two darts of the bodice first. The darts will have to be in two places: at the waist and towards the side seams, while you’re drafting the spikes.
Begin by rotating the dart to the side, so that you’ll be able to work on the area near the waistline. Don’t tape.
2. Draw the spiky shapes on the bodice. These represent the outer edge of the final spikes. Notice how they are placed in layers and how the uppermost spikes pass through the dart points.
3. To create a 3 dimensional effect, the spikes will have a sort of a facing under the tip. Draft the facing for each spike as seen in pink here. Once you have those, you can lengthen the lines you drew earlier so that each spike starts at the base of the previous layer.
Number the spikes in the order of the layers.
4. Now you need to rotate the darts back towards the waist, so that you can draw the final two spikes and their facings. Naturally, you can also add more spikes if you wish.
5. While the darts are still pointed towards the waistline, trace the upper part of the bodice. I colored the area in the picture so that you’ll see how you need to follow the line at the base of the facings.
Copy the little darts as they are; when you sew them, the line will be whole again.
6. Then copy the spikes. I’ve colored 2 of them in the previous pictures to show you the areas to trace. Here’s spike number 1. As the tip of the spike consists of two straight lines, you can simply fold the facing under. That’s why you now need to mirror both sides of the facing to complete the pattern piece. Remember to add notches where the following spike(s) starts.
Here’s a picture of the original pattern, so you can see better what I mean with the darts being in two different places. Without tape you can easily move them where needed as you go.
And here is an example of the single spike pattern with the facing folded under. The area under the tip remains open and you need to sew it after.
Here are the pattern pieces.
How to Sew Spikes
1. Begin by closing the tiny bust darts and the tips of each spike.
2. Turn the right sides out and press. Don’t mix up the order of the spikes.
3. Start uniting the spikes following the pattern from the waist up, one layer at a time.
4. Stitch all the layers together at the base of the facing.
5. Finally, attach the upper part of the bodice to the spikes.
Origami Vortex Bodice
There are many different types of origami patterns inside the toolbox of TR Cutting techniques, and Shingo Sato actually has a dedicated course that includes all of them. The origami designs are beautiful, but quite time-consuming to make.
To better understand the origami vortex, you first need to be able to make the bamboo bodice, because the technique is basically the same. It’s just that the folds are placed differently here, going in a circle.
This pattern might Look like a very complex thing, but once you know the basic technique, it’s not so difficult after all.
Drafting the Origami Pattern
As usual, begin by drafting lines where you want the folds to be. In order to do that, you need to work on a 3D bodice you get by closing the darts. It’s easiest to have the seam allowance already present at this point.
1. Draw lines in a vortex. Start from one side, go around the bodice front as shown here. The lines must end at the edge of the bodice.
2. Once you’re done with the first round, do a second one inside that. And then a third, and maybe even fourth, until you’re happy with the result. More lines you do, more time it will take to prepare the pattern and sew the bodice of course. Two of the lines must end at the dart points.
Then you need to add volume to create the folds (or darts) as you do with the bamboo bodice, starting from the first line you drew. Use the slash and spread -method.
I prepared this compilation of pictures with some tips you might find useful.
You can add whichever amount of volume you want, but probably 4-6cm is quite good. I don’t even measure how much I add, but rather do it randomly.
The folds go towards the center of the bodice.
When you’re done with the first round, lengthen the new lines so that they reach the edge of the piece that is left.
This is what the pattern looks like in the end. As is often the case with Shingo Sato‘s pattern designs, it’s all in one piece.
Sewing Origami Vortex
Don’t add any seam allowance. Cut little notches to the fabric where the dart points finish. That will help you to reconstruct the piece.
You need to work your way in the opposite direction when you’re sewing the bodice. So start from the last fold you added. Keep the pattern near, as it will help you figure out what to do if you lose your way.
Have a look at these pictures to get an idea on how to sew the folds.
This is the back side of the finished piece.
As you can see, sewing this piece will take some time. And unfortunately it’s quite difficult to explain exactly how it’s done. But have a look at the bamboo bodice tutorial as well.
Anyways, I hope you got some inspiration for your sewing projects!
32 Comments
Awesome design and detailed explanations! thank you!!
Happy to hear that. 🙂 You’re welcome.
fascinating designs and incredibly creative.
Thank you! 🙂 Yes, TR Cutting techniques are great for creating special designs.
Amazing and well detailed tutorial,weldone
Thank you! 🙂
Love the blog. Easy to follow along, extremely detailed.
Thank you so much! Pleased to hear that. 🙂 I’m trying my best. 😀
Thank you for creating a blog❤️ All tutorials are well detailed. I can’t wait for you to own a YouTube Channel.
Anticipating more wonderful articles.
Thank you! 🙂 I try to be as thorough as possible. Glad you find them helpful.
Lovely explanation, please Do well to have a YouTube channel
Thank you!:) I’m currently studying some video making, but then we’ll see where they end up. 😀
I absolutely love the layered bodice! I will have to try that. 🙂
Yes, it’s pretty. 🙂 I didn’t actually participate in the challenge back in 2015, so I was glad to have this excuse to figure out the pattern now.
Your articles are awesome! So much inspiration you give. Thank you❤️
I’m very grateful to be able to inspire people. 🙂 You’re welcome.
Thanks for these. I’m glad I came across your blog during this lock down period. I always look forward to your post. Keep up the good work 💪
You’re welcome.Turns out the lockdown has given a great opportunity for many people to learn new things, including some patternmaking. 🙂
Although I’m quite to pattern drafting & making , this is amazing. Thank you
You’re welcome. 🙂 It’s always great to learn new things.
Thankyou for teaching us
You’re welcome. 🙂
Detailed explanation, Thank you.
Please I will like to know how many cm is best to add for the facing
You’re welcome. 🙂 I added enough to cover half of the layer, so maybe around 4-5cm at the widest part.
Thank you for the tutorial. Well detailed.
You’re welcome. 🙂
Awsome explanation love it all… Sure going to give it a try , something I love in designing, Thank you for posting such challenge work.
You’re welcome. 🙂 I’ll be curious to see your designs!
I realy happy and inspiring from your design
Thanks so much! 🙂
I love this and thank you for sharing! I have copied all the pieces and cut it out. Do you have any extra tutorials for the top design? I’m a beginner and stuck with the construction! Was I meant to add a seam allowance to each individual piece? Thanks
Thanks so much. 🙂 Yes, you need to add seam allowance to the pieces. Personally, I add a narrow, 0,7cm seam allowance to these kinds of patterns. As these are TR Cutting techniques, you might find Shingo Sato’s videos on YouTube handy. Just search for TR Cutting School.